Harley Vibration At 2000 Rpm
I have a '06 WG that has started getting a real vibration through the foot pegs about 60mph in 6th gear. I think maybe around 2200 rpm. I pull in the clutch and let the motor idle down and the vibration goes away so I figure not a front wheel. I can't hear any unusual noise from the primary case so don't think it's the alternator rotor lose. That leaves me to believe the head steady or motor mounts may be the problem. Can anyone give me any input on insight on this type of problem?? Anything at all will be of help.
In the wind.Pops. The front isolator has a history of failing, Id start there.If this is a new thing then it's not the top mount, it wouldnt unwind. However having said that I've seen them where they've been cross threaded so bad at the factory that they are stripped.
So I guess you should give a quick visual just to be sure.But IMO the most likely suspect is the front isolator. It's collapsed and you got the two plates on each other.Unless it's a mild vibe, in which case it could be normal and settling into your new bike ya just picking up on it. Have you checked the torque on your swingarm mount bolt.
Anyhoo I would check that first since I've heard of this being loose causing vibration.Front mount (my 2007 #47583-90b check your parts manual to make sure on part #)47583-90B Zanotti Motor Co. $73 bucks plus shippingOn a Dyna you just about have to pull the front mount and look at it from all angles to see if it's bad.
The front is usually the one to suffer from the preload stretch. You need a sissor jack (or a hydraulic that won't sag).I shimmed the preload out of mine when I replaced the front. If you do that and shim it much at all you will need longer grade 8 bolts for sufficient penetration. But don't get them too long, the mount will only accept 1-1/8' of thread depth.Basically the OEM design theory was to stretch the motor in rubber and aleviate vibration. However the mounts tend to become deformed prematurely from too much stretch.
Free game download for mobile. It's been a common modification for some years by some to shim out this gap on the front mount thereby giving a more solid tie to the frame. Most say (including me) that there is less vibration (mine was noticable only above 50 mph). Others say they could tell no difference.If you buy a new mount it will probably shim out over a 1/4 of an inch (bout 4 washers). I used Stainless washers and grade 8 hex head bolts from Fastenal or Ace.
Just make sure the bare shank does not get into the mount threads and the threaded shanked section penetrates the mount at least 3/4 of an inch and not more than 1-1/8 inch.I say bare shank because the only fully threaded shank grade 8, I could find besides the hex heads were black iron and would rust. The hex heads are plated with brass colored coating (no idea what it is) but it is more rust resistant. I keep silicone sprayed on mine. I would not use Stainless bolts as their grade ratings are weaker and ambigous.In any case here's a pic of my old and my new. Notice the old one is stretched forward, it's the one on the right. The other pic is of putting my shim washers in.
Harley Vibration At 2000 Rpm Calculator
The last guy that wrote in here with the vibration problem was told his crank is shot!!! These are fairly new bikes, how do you get a bad crank shaft?? Somebody is screwing up. I was thinking that his cam timing was out of whack so it would miss and cause vibration like a funny car. But he didn't believe that one. Anyway, check it out.
You might have to get a new bottom and swap your jugs and heads over to the new engine. Or just part out the old one and get a whole new engine.
Hope this helps.Posted on May 13, 2010.