I am wanting to build a 5' by 15' grid to create 27 18' square openings so students in my school can display 16' square paintings in our Media Center. I am planning on using 1x2's for construction, and I will use my Kreg jig to assemble everything.Because I am working on a budget, I am hoping to use pine. But, is pine going to be stable enough to keep everything from warping or twisting?

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All of the verticals will be 57' tall, and the horizontal dividers are going to be 18'.Is poplar a better choice? Once dry and in a climate controlled environment there should be no problem with either pine or poplar. Keep in mind that many different softwoods are called 'pine' today. Just a few are spruce, fir, Southern Yellow Pine, white pine, yellow pine and many more.

Sometimes you just don't know what you are buying.When I need stable wood, I look for the wood that appears to be the most dry. Warpage problems occur mainly during drying.I also look for quarter or rift sawn. I doubt with 1'x2' you need to worry about that.Sometimes I use Western Red Cedar (same stuff as fencing) because it is lightweight and seems very stable. Plus its cheap. You might have to cut it to size though.

I used regular #2 pine I bought at Lowes for the face frames of our kitchen cabinets. I bought 1x6 or 1x8 boards, and ripped them into 2' wide strips. Then I used my power miter saw to cut out any knots or other blemishes in the strips. The result was mostly clear lumber that worked well for the face frames.I assembled the face frames using two pocket screws at each joint.After sanding, I applied a coat of Minwax wood preconditioner, then a coat of Minwax 'Windsor Oak' gel stain, and three coats of satin polyurethane (sanding lightly with 400grit between coats). They turned out great, with no blotchy spots, and the pine looks great in our kitchen.I wanted a slightly more formal look in my home office, so I used poplar for the face frames (again, standard Lowes/Home Depot lumber).

Same wood preconditioner, a traditional varethane stain, and three coats of gloss poly.Both woods worked and finished fine. I noticed some minor warpage in the cabinet doors with both woods, but that's likely due to moisture, clamping issues, or my own poor craftsmanship. No issues at all with the face frames that are glued to the birch plywood cabinet carcasses.Anthony. Two things.poplar and pine will color just fine if you use the right technique and products.

'Stains' are a no-no without a preconditioner, but dyes work just fine without 'blotching'. Both will also paint well, but require the proper primer for best results. Pine is harder to paint in that your primer must also be able to seal in the pitch, especially if the pine isn't clear. I generally use a water soluble dye on poplar, seal the dye with dewaxed shellac and then top coat as appropriate. With coloration, you can make poplar mimic a variety of close grained woods including cherry with very nice results.And 'poly' isn't nirvana.

It provides no more 'protection' to the wood, both for wear (outside of a little more abrasion resistance since it was designed for floors) than other forms of varnish and less moisture (not water) resistance than shellac. Polyurethane is pretty much over marketed. Of course, that means it's easily available.often the only thing on the shelf. Don't get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with using it. It just unfair of the industry and consequently the public to equate poly with amazing properties it just doesn't have.As to the choice of wood, I'd go with poplar for this project because it's going to stand up a little better in a public environment than the softer pine will.

Poplar (tulip poplar) is a relative soft hardwood, but still quite durable. I build a good percentage of my furniture with it and like it's workability.Last edited by Jim Becker; at 10:01 PM. Forget the stability issue, either poplar or pine is stable enough if the moisture is correct, which is a crap shoot when purchased from the big box stores. The bigger issues in my mind are durability and cost. You can use a lot of #2 pine for short pieces, cutting around the knots to yield clear material, and buy clear grade or finger joint if its for paint grade. In any event I don't see pine being durable enough to with stand the inevitable abuse doled out by school children over years, poplar is much more impact resistant.The other issue is cost.

The 1X material I have seen and been forced to use by a client once in the past from the orange borg was poorly surfaced and all required machine sanding to yield one smooth face. It varied in thickness by as much as 1/16' in the same lot (yes 3/4' actual measured from 11/16'-13/16'.very inconvienent for face frames). And the cost of said processed material was 3X what I pay for skim planed 4/4 (15/16' actual) from my lumber supplier.At the prices the big boxes charge for marginal material, you could buy soft maple from a real lumber yard, which IMHO and experience will out perform both poplar and pine for your project, and still be ahead on cost. This assumes you have the machines and time to process it.

You might still break even ordering material planned and cut into 1X material by the yard selling it. I encourage you to look for a good hardwood supplier, the big boxes are the bottom of the barrel.

Time / 00:47Hear about how this outdoor kitchen was constructed using cinder blocks, cast concrete countertops and a faux stone veneer.Not all outdoor kitchens are built the same way. There are a variety of options when it comes to how the structure, or base, of an outdoor kitchen will be built.

The materials selected for an outdoor kitchen must be able to withstand high temperatures as well as a variety of weather conditions. Framing options include concrete block, brick, wood or steel.The construction of an outdoor kitchen can be a complex process. For safety and durability, it is essential that construction be carried out properly. Hire a masonry or landscaping contractor that has experience building outdoor kitchens. Can be purchased if you wish to avoid detailed construction.While each outdoor kitchen is unique, the construction process is relatively uniform whether it's built out of wood or block or even a framework kit. However, there are many hidden factors that come into the creation of an expansive satellite outdoor kitchen that can have a big impact on how long it takes to build and whether or not there are specialties that demand a variation in the process.

Concrete BlockA common option is to build your outdoor kitchen out of concrete block. A concrete block structure must be built on a solid, level slab of concrete.

Concrete block is affordable, weather and fire resistant, and easy to work with. Decorative concrete panels, stucco, tile, and stone are all suitable facing materials for an outdoor kitchen constructed with concrete block.Concrete block construction allows for complete customization.

You will be able to configure your kitchen any way you like and include as few, or as many, appliances and accessories as you wish. Building an outdoor kitchen out of concrete block requires masonry skills, so hire an experienced contractor to do the job. Brick MasonryAnother option is to build the base of your outdoor kitchen with brick. Brick kitchens will need to be constructed on a concrete slab.

Cabinet Face Frame Material

Constructing an outdoor kitchen with can be complicated and time consuming. However, the end result will be structurally sound and will hold up to the elements.

An added benefit is that you will not need to face a kitchen built from bricks, it will already have a beautiful finish. An outdoor kitchen constructed of brick is completely customizable.When using brick, you will be able to layout your kitchen any way you like and include as few, or as many, appliances and accessories as you wish. Building an outdoor kitchen out of brick requires high-level masonry skills, so if you don't have considerable experience building with bricks and mortar, you should hire a contractor who does. Wood-FrameYou can build your outdoor kitchen with wood. If choosing to build a wood-framed base you should use pressure-treated pine because it will hold up better under the extreme heat omitted by the grill and will be less likely to rot. In order to protect the wood frame from heat and water, it should be covered with cement backer board, both on the inside and outside of the structure.

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Be aware that there is still some concern over fire safety, even with the backer board in place.Once the backer board is attached to the frame, it can be faced with decorative concrete panels, stucco, stone, tile, or a. Just like concrete block and brick, wood-frame construction gives you complete customization options. You can make your kitchen any size or shape and include whatever appliances you'd like. Steel-Frame KitsA popular option for outdoor kitchen construction is a steel frame. Steel-frames are heat and weather resistant and very sturdy. You can purchase steel frame kits designed specifically for outdoor kitchens. The frames come in a variety of configurations and can support a range of appliances and accessories.Steel frame kits can be used to create both simple and elaborate outdoor kitchens, plus everything in between.

The frames are positioned as you like, riveted together and bolted to a concrete slab. Cement backer board is used to skin the structure and then the walls can be stuccoed, stone-clad or tiled. Grading:Grading a landscape to drain is step one of the construction process that may prove the most important. Soil compaction, leveling and layout of drainage structures such as drop inlets may be considered in these finish elevations with sometimes must meet those of preexisting patios, pool decks or other elements.

Utilities:Installation of utilities is the most challenging of all outdoor kitchen construction features because they may require specialty subcontractors for electric and plumbing needed by many of the kitchen features such as a sink, which requires hot water and a sewer drain. All utilities must be hooked up to the breaker box of the home itself and run underground to the points of connection at the kitchen.

The size of the trenches, depth, the need for conduit and other factors must be met exactly for building code inspections. Overhead structure:If there's a shade arbor or a roofed portico to protect the kitchen and its components, significant footings must be installed early on. Paving:Many outdoor kitchen systems that offer prefabricated units are installed upon existing paving. Other built from scratch units may be installed on their own concrete footings then paving is laid around them. Units:The installation of the kitchen units whether a single island or a three sided series will vary in time depending on how elaborate the design.

Those which require stone veneer and elaborate detailing as well as complex components can extend construction time considerably, particularly when subcontractors must return to perform final hook ups for inspections. Countertops:This stage of the process may require granite countertops or tile or even Corian. The more elaborate these finishes are the most time is needed to complete the work. Granite is installed in a day while ceramic tile may take singificantly longer due to the many steps of the tilesetting process.

Lighting and fans:One of the final steps is the installation of lighting fixtures and overhead fans. This is not time consuming, but the lighting must be fine tuned to illuminate particular parts of the kitchen or adjacent dining areas. The positioning of bullet spots and other specialty light fixtures is important for ensuring all the work places are usable after dark.